I have just returned from Yangon spending 4 days visiting a few orphanages. My first trip to Burma was 25 years ago when I was only 13 years old. It was one of the most magical places I'd ever visited. I fell in love with the people and was struck by the charming colonial feel of the place. Almost every car looked like it was from the 50s and had cracked windscreens. I remember leaving my wallet, exploding with money, in a taxi. The taxi driver traced me to my hotel room to return a fully intact wallet and refused a reward. I was stunned by his honesty.
I remember being greeted like a celebrity wherever I went with hordes of children coming up to me to give me handwritten letters of friendship (and love!) Wherever my dad and I went we were treated like family and invited into homes for a meal. Watching the sun rise over 4000 pagodas in Pagan was a mystical experience as was gliding over the mist on Inle Lake in a traditional boat amidst lotus flowers.
This time around I didn't get to venture any further than Yangon and what I saw was heartbreaking.
Ever since the student uprising of 1988 the govt has used its iron fist to oppress and suppress its humble people. Universities closed for 4 years after that and now they are spread across outside the main city and are carefully monitored. There are govt spies everywhere. This has created distrust among the Burmese people.
The taxi driver who picked us up from the airport wasted no time relating all the hardships endured by his people. There was so much resentment in his voice towards his govt yet so much helplessness at any resolution. "If they come after me then I will consider leaving Burma," he confided. He said he has sleepless nights waiting for govt spies to knock on his door and haul him away like so many others have experienced. His crime - wanting a better life for himself and his family. Wanting justice and humanity for his people.
All along the ride we saw several palatial homes with chandeliers hanging from the driveway. Many new mansions are being built. Coincidentally more have sprung up after Cyclone Nargis. "The generals are rich after the cyclone." said our driver. Meanwhile thousands of farmers along the Irrawaddy still live under makeshift plastic sheets and their farms still destroyed.
When we arrived at our hotel, the taxi driver thanked us for willing to visit his country which got me thinking...
All these years Burma has been out of my radar for countries to visit as I too believed tourism there would only enrich the govt. I too wanted to send a strong message to Burma that we were not condoning their military rule and oppression of its people.
But what I witnessed in those few days was a clear message to me that I was gravely mistaken. The boycotts and sanctions on Burma have had little effect on the ruling junta. In fact they continue to bask in riches from their gems and oil trade (not to mention drug exports). As long as China & India continue to do business with them who needs the US or any other Western country for that matter. In fact the fewer tourists the better as the govt’s unjust policies will not be exposed to the world.
The biggest losers are the Burmese people. Yangon is in such a dilapidated state with once regal colonial buildings now abandoned or in dire need of a face lift. There is so much poverty on the streets and the Burmese seem to have accepted their fate. Either that or risk imprisonment.
There is only 6 hours of intermittent electricity in Yangon (excluding the embassies, hotels & military areas) and many can't afford a generator. Of course the new capital Naypyidaw has 24 hours electricity if you're willing to live in the middle of nowhere.
Cars, most of which resemble rejects from a 70's stock car race, can cost around USD30,000. Motorbikes are only reserved for govt spies to facilitate faster reporting! So the people are left to commute via bicycles or unreliable public transportation (taxis are expensive by local standards).
A handphone used to cost USD6000 but now sells at the rock bottom price of USD3000! Prepaid cards of USD50 each have just been introduced but expire after 30 days and calls range from 50 cents to 1.50 per minute. And this only works on Mhz lines not GSM. The average income is less than USD200 per month.
The queue to fill up gas can take 3 hours as the number of gas depots are limited. We had to change taxis three times one night as the taxis were all running out of gas.
Every publication is required to write down the principles of the nation which include obedience and loyalty to the government. The daily newspaper, New Light of Myanmar, is govt propaganda reporting news of the military and articles about why Burmese people should be grateful for their nation and their govt. There are constant reminders to foreigners not to interfere in the peace and stability of the nation. I was in Burma during Suu Kyi's trial and there was hardly any news on what was going on. The news in the papers was a week old!
My German husband was a very rare sight on the streets of Yangon. He drew many curious stares - suspicious ones from possible govt spies and broad grins from locals grateful at the sight of tourists.
At the romantic and charming Governor's Residence where we stayed we were 1 out of 3 rooms occupied in a hotel with 48 rooms. We had 2 waiters literally standing 3 feet behind us anticipating our every move. You could see the appreciation on their faces at our presence there. I have never experienced such attentive and warm service before.
We visited 2 very run down orphanages on the outskirts of Yangon. Of course the govt does not allow them to be called orphanages instead they are "childcare centers". The govt is wary of outside funding for these centers as they claim they are able to provide for them on their own, which sadly is not the case.
Recently a group of Caucasian volunteers visited an orphanage and govt spies reported them, the very next day the govt placed a lot of new restrictions on orphanages.
Visits to orphanages have to be done on a low profile. But it is worth every effort as it is eye-opening to see the conditions of these centers and how much the children desperately need assistance.
Despite the harsh realities of the suffering and oppression in Burma I couldn't help but feel a sense of calm and peace looking out the window of my hotel room. For all its rough edges and poverty, the inhumanity and injustice, I could still sense the strong and undying spirit of the Burmese people. I could still feel their warmth and gratitude for the little that they possessed. And that is something the Junta will ever be able to rob from them...
So my friends, perhaps it is time to rethink our rules and reasons for boycotting Burma. Are we really sending an effective message to the govt or are we merely contributing to the hardships faced by Burma's beautiful people?
When you travel to Burma you can directly contribute to the locals by shopping and eating at locally owned places or staying in privately owned hotels which actively support orphanages. All it takes is a little research and noble intentions and the rest will fall into place. Oh, and how wonderful would it be to be able to touch the lives of the underprivileged in Burma by volunteering to paint an orphanage or bring supplies for them... the people of Burma need to know that you still care about them.
I remember being greeted like a celebrity wherever I went with hordes of children coming up to me to give me handwritten letters of friendship (and love!) Wherever my dad and I went we were treated like family and invited into homes for a meal. Watching the sun rise over 4000 pagodas in Pagan was a mystical experience as was gliding over the mist on Inle Lake in a traditional boat amidst lotus flowers.
This time around I didn't get to venture any further than Yangon and what I saw was heartbreaking.
Ever since the student uprising of 1988 the govt has used its iron fist to oppress and suppress its humble people. Universities closed for 4 years after that and now they are spread across outside the main city and are carefully monitored. There are govt spies everywhere. This has created distrust among the Burmese people.
The taxi driver who picked us up from the airport wasted no time relating all the hardships endured by his people. There was so much resentment in his voice towards his govt yet so much helplessness at any resolution. "If they come after me then I will consider leaving Burma," he confided. He said he has sleepless nights waiting for govt spies to knock on his door and haul him away like so many others have experienced. His crime - wanting a better life for himself and his family. Wanting justice and humanity for his people.
All along the ride we saw several palatial homes with chandeliers hanging from the driveway. Many new mansions are being built. Coincidentally more have sprung up after Cyclone Nargis. "The generals are rich after the cyclone." said our driver. Meanwhile thousands of farmers along the Irrawaddy still live under makeshift plastic sheets and their farms still destroyed.
When we arrived at our hotel, the taxi driver thanked us for willing to visit his country which got me thinking...
All these years Burma has been out of my radar for countries to visit as I too believed tourism there would only enrich the govt. I too wanted to send a strong message to Burma that we were not condoning their military rule and oppression of its people.
But what I witnessed in those few days was a clear message to me that I was gravely mistaken. The boycotts and sanctions on Burma have had little effect on the ruling junta. In fact they continue to bask in riches from their gems and oil trade (not to mention drug exports). As long as China & India continue to do business with them who needs the US or any other Western country for that matter. In fact the fewer tourists the better as the govt’s unjust policies will not be exposed to the world.
The biggest losers are the Burmese people. Yangon is in such a dilapidated state with once regal colonial buildings now abandoned or in dire need of a face lift. There is so much poverty on the streets and the Burmese seem to have accepted their fate. Either that or risk imprisonment.
There is only 6 hours of intermittent electricity in Yangon (excluding the embassies, hotels & military areas) and many can't afford a generator. Of course the new capital Naypyidaw has 24 hours electricity if you're willing to live in the middle of nowhere.
Cars, most of which resemble rejects from a 70's stock car race, can cost around USD30,000. Motorbikes are only reserved for govt spies to facilitate faster reporting! So the people are left to commute via bicycles or unreliable public transportation (taxis are expensive by local standards).
A handphone used to cost USD6000 but now sells at the rock bottom price of USD3000! Prepaid cards of USD50 each have just been introduced but expire after 30 days and calls range from 50 cents to 1.50 per minute. And this only works on Mhz lines not GSM. The average income is less than USD200 per month.
The queue to fill up gas can take 3 hours as the number of gas depots are limited. We had to change taxis three times one night as the taxis were all running out of gas.
Every publication is required to write down the principles of the nation which include obedience and loyalty to the government. The daily newspaper, New Light of Myanmar, is govt propaganda reporting news of the military and articles about why Burmese people should be grateful for their nation and their govt. There are constant reminders to foreigners not to interfere in the peace and stability of the nation. I was in Burma during Suu Kyi's trial and there was hardly any news on what was going on. The news in the papers was a week old!
My German husband was a very rare sight on the streets of Yangon. He drew many curious stares - suspicious ones from possible govt spies and broad grins from locals grateful at the sight of tourists.
At the romantic and charming Governor's Residence where we stayed we were 1 out of 3 rooms occupied in a hotel with 48 rooms. We had 2 waiters literally standing 3 feet behind us anticipating our every move. You could see the appreciation on their faces at our presence there. I have never experienced such attentive and warm service before.
We visited 2 very run down orphanages on the outskirts of Yangon. Of course the govt does not allow them to be called orphanages instead they are "childcare centers". The govt is wary of outside funding for these centers as they claim they are able to provide for them on their own, which sadly is not the case.
Recently a group of Caucasian volunteers visited an orphanage and govt spies reported them, the very next day the govt placed a lot of new restrictions on orphanages.
Visits to orphanages have to be done on a low profile. But it is worth every effort as it is eye-opening to see the conditions of these centers and how much the children desperately need assistance.
Despite the harsh realities of the suffering and oppression in Burma I couldn't help but feel a sense of calm and peace looking out the window of my hotel room. For all its rough edges and poverty, the inhumanity and injustice, I could still sense the strong and undying spirit of the Burmese people. I could still feel their warmth and gratitude for the little that they possessed. And that is something the Junta will ever be able to rob from them...
So my friends, perhaps it is time to rethink our rules and reasons for boycotting Burma. Are we really sending an effective message to the govt or are we merely contributing to the hardships faced by Burma's beautiful people?
When you travel to Burma you can directly contribute to the locals by shopping and eating at locally owned places or staying in privately owned hotels which actively support orphanages. All it takes is a little research and noble intentions and the rest will fall into place. Oh, and how wonderful would it be to be able to touch the lives of the underprivileged in Burma by volunteering to paint an orphanage or bring supplies for them... the people of Burma need to know that you still care about them.
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